Korca - the city of serenades
Though small, Korça has a fantastic range of sights in and just outside its city limits. Boulevard Republika is a good street for a stroll, and on summer evening youll be joined by hundreds of locals doing their xhiropromenade when the street is closed off for traffic. Its lined by old villas with decorative metal railings, flower gardens and fragrant linden trees.
Do take the time to explore the old streets away from the modern boulevards - you can find typical old cobbled streets between Blv. Gjergi Kastrioti and Blv. Republika, though the prettiest streets are directly behind the cathedral.
Orthodox Cathedral [Katedralja Ngallja e Krishtit]
Orthodox CathedralKorças Orthodox Cathedral of the Ressurection was completely rebuilt in 1992 after the previous church on this site, St. George cathedral, was destroyed by the Communist authorities in 1968. Now the impressive pink building is the largest church in Albania, and the second largest in the Balkans. Inside, the modest white interior is is dominated by a huge carved wooden iconostasis. Also note the Albanian eagles carved into the chairs.
Medieval Art Museum [Muzeu Kombëtar i Artit Mesjetar]
Medieval Art MuseumKorças best museum has an excellent collection of 6,500 medieval and modern icons from Southern Albania, as well as 1,500 other objects, of which some 200 icons and 50 metal objects are on display in this curious building. Once the most important Orthodox church of Korça, the Mitropolia church of Shën Gjergj (Saint George) was renovated beyond recognition during totalitarian rule and opened as a museum in 1987 – you can still recognise bits of the church inside and next door in the newly re-established Shën Gjergj church. Starting with icons from the 14th century and proceeding in chronological order, most icons in the museum are from the 16th-19th centuries. Many are from Voskopoja, which in the 17th was one of the main centres for iconography in the Balkans. Orthodox art was highly regulated, and all icons had to be painted following precise instructions, with a fixed position prescribed for each saint; Mary can only be depicted in nine poses. Note the two icons of St. George that incorporate grisly martyrdom scenes, with Turks (representing evil of course) inflicting unimaginable cruelty upon unwitting Christians who immediately acquire haloes. The museums highlight is the collection of icons by the 16th century Albanian master Onufri, which stand out for their vivid colours and wonderful detail. Onufri started his career in Berat (where there is a smaller but equally interesting icon museum dedicated to him) but made his finest works later in Gjirokastra.
Phone ahead to make sure the museum is open, and to inform if the knowledgeable English-speaking icon experts are present. Postcards and an English-language booklet are for sale at the entrance.
Admission 200 lek.
Mirahor Mosque [Xhamia e Iljaz Bej Mirahorit]
Mirahor MosqueKorças venerable mosque from 1484, the oldest in Albania, was founded by Iljaz Bey Mirahor, who played an important role in the seige of Constantinopel in 1453. The modest building looks a bit battered and its minaret was only recently restored after being knocked down by an earthquake long ago, but its a true survivor. The building is usually locked up, but before and after prayertime the community is happy to show you the interior with its depictions of Islams holy cities Medina and Mecca.
